A yak grazes in front of the Annapurna massif near Yak Kharka ( Pastures first thing I told people when I returned from Nepal was, was not a vacation for anyone lacking a lot of experience with the sights, smells, and sounds of the Third World.Once you set foot on the 135 mile Annapurna Circuit, there no turning back. And all the money in the world can buy you avoidance of hotels with reeking squat toilets down the hall or out back and 10 square foot rooms with two twin beds and plywood walls; slogging through the leavings of pack animals, chickens, and dogs; minimal restaurant choices and an hour wait to be served; and becoming sick without the scrupulous use of hand cleaner and iodized water.That said costume jewelry, even with all of its inconveniences, this was a dream vacation for me: miles of hiking every day among the world most spectacular mountain scenery and seeing a rural culture that almost as far from my own as one can get.We quickly ascertained that only a fool would choose to take this trip with an outfitter. The admirable Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) has installed excellent signage and requires you to have your permit stamped a police checkpoints en route, in case you missing.

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